TIPS TO CAR OWNERS ABOUT MAINT/ OPERATION
ABOUT MYSELF: OWNED KIA CERATOO 2007, USED approxy 8 YEARS ( 293000km) WITH OUT ANY BREAK DOWN/ USE THE RECOVERY VECHICLE. But, did the Preventive/ Routine Maintnance Ontime with the authroised service centre during the warrenty period ( 3 Years) , then remaining 5 Years - managed private outside the service center.U CAN CALL ME IF ANY ASSISTANCE RELATED WITH KIA CERATO.. Hope, i can able to advise - if any issue.. ( [email protected] / 3321944)
LAST FIVE YEARS AVERAGE 50000 KM / YEAR ( DOHA - RASLAFFAN 6 DAYS / WEEK 200KM / DAY)
I owned the Kia Cerato -2007 Model. It was bought at UAE - Used 3 Years (30000KM) and Moved to Qatar Dec-2009. Until Feb-2015 ( 5 Years - 200KM / Day) - Doha - Ras Laffan Trip ( 6 Days / week). The Odometer Reading is KM 293000 +. No Break Down at all until Feb-2015. Did proper Maintance at service centre during warrenty Period ( 2007-2010) , Then Managed myself with geniune spares and Repairs are Done outside the KIA service . The car was in excellent operation condition ,no break down at all. Yes, Maintnance / Repair carried pro-actively. The Lesson Learned and TIPs to how to maintain the car are as follow: I am not sure, I can't complete at one post. But, I will continue to share my experiance, Which may be usefull to first time car owners. Because, there is too much myth about different Manufacturers, CARS MAINTNANCE, MILAGE.. ETC.. If more than 100000 KM, Sale or replace , Only Agency Service.. etc.
Design Flaw / Equipment Flaws: Aerial Antenna - Rod Type - It was telescopic type, Every time switch On / Off - Due to Dust , It is frequently Strucks. Forced to replace ( QAR 500). Then, Cleaned the aerial Antenna Rod - Frequently to avoid the issue related with. KIA CHANGED THE ANTENNA WITH FIXED TYPE -ROOF MOUNTED ( 2009 OR 2010 ONWARDS).
2. AC FAN - Switch Burn Out - When you operate High Fan Speed during Hot summer ( After 3 Years), It is got failed (Variable Current Limitting resistance Card - COST Around QAR 500-1000). When I replaced, KIA ALREADY ENHANCED THE VARIABLE RESISTANCE SWITCH WITH PROPER HEAT SINK, SO THAT IT CAN'T BURNT OUT ( ASSUME 2009 OR 2010 ONWARDS)
RECOMMENDATION: NEVER OPERATE THE FAN SWITCH TO MAX. (FULL SPEED) OPERATE MID. POSITION TO AVOID THE REPAIR.
Except These 2 Items - I didn't see any design flaw of KIA Ceratoo Until 293000 Km ( 8 Years).
TIPS / LESSON LEARNED:
1. CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL - EVERY 5000 KM
Oil: 4 Lit QAR approxY (QAR60)
2. CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ( QAR 15): 10000 KM
labour charge for Oil Change: QAR 15-20 ( Outside)
Note: For Oil Change, Go to best shop - The Technicians Tends TO damage the thread of Enginle Oil Drain Plug. Hence, Ensure, the Drain Plugs are reinstalled without any dust / sand particle. To avoid the Oil Leakage through Drain Gap and damage thread at engine drain hole, If the thread is damaged it will be big issue - Oil Leakage, Thread at Engine Side - Rework (Its bit complicated). Hence, it is one of the Part more frequently opened / closed (Monthly Once in My case ). JUST REMIND THE TECHNICAL TO CLEAN THE BOLT AND WITH GOOD CLOTHS AND AIR.
3. Transmission Oil & Filter:
FILTER:QAR 75, OIL: QAR 80, Replacement Cost: QAR 150 ( Outside)
When to Change the Transmission Oil? - It seems every one is confused including me. Some one say, Check the Oil Condition - If it is no foul Smell and it remain in Pink Color - That means no need to change. Some Car Manufactures says 40000KM Once Change the Transmission Oil and Filter. Some says 70000-80000 KM. I followed every 40000 change the oil and alternatively i.e 80000 Km once change the Filter. my recomendation is 40000 -50000 KM Change oil and Filter ( ATLEAST EARLY ONCE)
NOTE: Ensure, the Oil Level ( within Minimum and Maximum) - it has to be checked when engine oil Hot and Gear Position at Neutral. Do it only with Experianced Technician. It will have impact on Transmission system - No beyond Maximum Level and Below the Min. Level.( MUST MAINTAIN FOR BETTER LIFE).
4. RADIATOR COOLENT:
Radiator Coolent: QAR 20:
RADIATOR: QAR 800 AND ABOVE
The coolent cost is nothing when you compare the importance of the coolent is very important. Atleast Monthly Once check the coolent storage level and fill upto max. ( Which can be kept on standy in the house). Observe, the coolent color remains green. Normally, The coolent level loss (Evaporation) will be very minimal. If there is any leak in the coolent line, Radiator Leaks ( Radiator Leaks will be addresses seperately) and didn;t maintain the coolent level- The engine will heat up. If found Engine Heat ( Normal : 40-45 dec, Abnormal More than 50 Dec). PLEASE STOP IMMEDIATELY, USE RECOVERY VEHICLE TO SHIFT THE CAR TO WORKSHOP. It will be potentially damageto the Engine seals and Maint. Cost will be huge.. may be lead to abonden your vehicle.
TIPS: If you didn;t notice, IF the the engine got hot, The Internal Eectrical controls circuit- automatically, cut off the AC compressor Operation. U can feel, the AC may not work only fan run. So, Check the Engine Temperature Indicate ( Always Less than 50%) . Also, Keep Remember the Temperature Indication Location while engine in normal Operation Condition. If there is a ny abnormal indication also, Just the Coolent Level or any leak of coolent pipe or Radiator. Some time, If Radiator Fans not works, then also passible. But, Highly Unlikey, due to Radiator Fan.( Don;t Keep your finger near the radiator Fan - when the engine is hot, it is automatic on/ off depends on engine Temperaure, - Even if cars off / stopped)
2. Change the Coolent atleast every year once. ( Before Every Summer starts). Becuse, Coolent Properties may tend to weakens. I felt effective, once in a year ( Before start Summer). Because, In summer only the Engine got loaded max. with AC loand and Max. speed.
3. Check the Coolent Supply & Return Tube from radiator to Engine ( Atleast Early Once), whether it is soft and flexible. If it is hard and not flexible ( consult Technican) - If you want to change - change the Tubes also.
Note: In supply Line, there will be Check Valve(Non Return Valve), Some time after long operation , it tend to fails, so the supply of Coolent to Engine may stopped. So, It s better to change the Coolent Supply and Return Tube along with Check valve( It will be located at the supply point of engine). Each Tube : QAR 75 AND CHECK VALVE MAY BE QAR 100. ( It is better to keep the Check Valve as it is. Technician will no need.. to avoid the engine hot due to check valve. But, the Purpose of Check valves, There will not drainout / return back to radiator in the supply path I changed the Tubes,and Check valve - once after 5 years.
4. Radiator Maintnance Tips :
Over a Period of 5 Years, I observed the Coolent leak through Radiator due to corrosion at top header. Best to Replace with New. Some time radiator Fins Tube .. Mostly, Due to corroson / Poor Maintnance of Coolent Level. In My case, I used to wash the engine part while doing the car wash and apply the air inorder to remove stored water at engine end. But, failed to notice the Radiator End.... Also, The bonnet End Insulation Sponge get wetted / and hot ( For Every Car Wash) it is directly, touching the Radiator Header. So, there is high potential spot to get corroded. So, I replaced the Radiator after 5 Years, and Ensure, there is no water deposit at Radiator Body after Washing. Also, There is wetted parts (Sponge Removed at bonnet end). Once, it is engine get hot, Automaticall the Supply and Return Tube will get hardened. Eventhough No Issue with Tube, Better to replace the supply and return tube along with Check valve. To keep operate without any issue for longer period.
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